Bethlehem was wonderful, and we were happy to see that people are returning there in some numbers. Since the second intifada the town had been almost deserted by tourists and even by pilgrims, and the People of Bethlehem had struggled to survive. It is no longer so, and although there are clearly many problems the town is at least alive with visitors again, and therefore once more has some currency coming in
We saw the wall, of course, you can't miss the wall. It is, sadly, ugly in every sense - nine metre blocks of concrete fastened together and dotted with watch towers, stretching for miles to remind a divided people that divisions are entirely man made.
Nobody here wants the wall - Israel built it for protection, of course, against terrible attack, but as a solution it is surely no more effective than shutting a door to keep your anger locked in. It's an enemy in itself, and set against the lovely pink beige of the Jerusalem stone it's a scar. Not that it would be any better built of pink stone - it is what it is. A barrier to movement and therefore to friendship and understanding.
The wall made us sad, but our driver was a delight, taking us to the Mount of Olives where, as a small boy, he had given tourists olive branches and asked for coins. Sure enough, when we got there they were waiting for us, branches at the ready.
He was a lovely man - his family grave dates back 700 years, he told us, but his heart aches at the divisions in his country. There are hard stories to hear on all sides here.
Our final celebratory supper provided a last chance for the remaining cyclists - and some family members - to gather before we part. It was a chance for Ed to embarrass us all, and a chance for us all the embarrass Ed. Both chances were taken to the full.
Since I have a hold of this blackberry and have therefore a certain amount of freedom to embarrass Ed still further, I include here my words to him....
Every so often half way up a hill
You'd come pedalling by and I'd be standing still
I'd say, Ed, is this the last hill for a while
And you never replied, you just gave me that smile.
So charming, so handsome, that smile said, don't worry
There's only one more and we're not in a hurry
You seemed to have faith that I'd get there with ease
Despite pain in my calves and my thighs and my knees
So thank you for smiling and helping me on
Till the miles were all done and the hills were all gone
But I'll never forget till I'm long in the tooth
The difference 'tween literal and Biblical truth.
And so after supper a few of us painted the town red (or at least a gentle pink). Fi made friends with all of Jerusalem and the forty somethings actually stayed awake later than Veila!
Sunday morning dawned with an early trip to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre for some, and the Mosque for others. The church, the place where Christ was crucified, and where He was laid in Joseph's tomb, was deeply moving. The church was full of pilgrims - Greek orthodox, Armenian and a group of Christians on pilgrimage from California who were generous enough to allow me to join their Eucharist service. I can't say what a privilege it was to say Mass with this lovely group of people and their priest at the very place of the Crucifixion.
And now the blog should end, despite my own tendency to waffle on as a cure for your insomnia.
It has been an enormous privilege to share this journey with these people, even if I shared it from the back (where, as so often said, so many of them lingered to help me on) and to finish in this place. I am writing this now from a cafe in a quiet Jerusalem - most people are in church or in bed. The heat of the day isn't yet upon us, the shops are just opening and I must buy oranges and wine for my beloved. But taking a moment to reflect first my mind drifts back over the laughter and the pain, the crises that drew us together and the miles we have covered. We did have the odd disaster, it's true, but that which doesn't destroy you makes you strong, as they say, and I know we have moved from a slightly mixed and nervous set of individuals to a really close group of friends. I don't believe any of us could possibly ever forget one another.
As to what we have learned... It's very difficult to answer, and the answers are doubtless as varied as the number of our group. But we've asked ourselves questions we had never asked before, and many of us feel that we were on more than one sort of journey.
So from me at least, until the next time (poor Ed has been assured there will be a next time) a Christian blessing. The Lord bless you and keep you, the Lord make His face to shine upon you and be gracious unto Him. The Lord lift up the light of His countenance upon you and give you peace. Shalom.
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device
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